Tis the Seasons! First up, Thanksgiving

You’re in charge of dessert, crap! What should you bring??

Easy.

Deep breath.

Solution: the simplest apple tart made from scratch, ever.

Want to wow your crowd with a dessert like this?

Thought so.

Follow this recipe for best results. Prep time 20 minutes, baking time about 30 minutes. Makes 2 tarts.

Apple Cinnamon Galette

1 Box frozen puff pastry (2 sheets)
4 large apples, peeled, cored and sliced thin (around 1/8 ” thick)
2 tbsp butter, cut into 1/4″ cubed pieces
2 tbsp sugar
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/3 cup apricot preserves*
1 tbsp water

Preheat oven to 400*F. Thaw the puff pastry in the fridge over night, or if you forget, thaw on the counter for 30-40 minutes. Place parchment paper on a rimmed baking sheet and lay the puff pastry out. Fold each edge over about 1/4 ” creating an edge. Dust the puff pastry lightly with cinnamon. Peel, core and quarter the apples. Using a sharp knife or mandoline cut the apples into 1/8″ thin slices. Arrange the apple slices diagonally across the pastry or however you like. Dot with butter squares, sprinkle sugar evenly over the top and place in the oven for 30-35 minutes or until golden brown.

Heat apricot preserves with water in the microwave for 15 seconds, strain, and brush lightly over the top of the pastry.

Serve immediately or cool.

*substituting orange marmalade or apple jelly for apricot preserves can also be used.

Yes, it’s that easy.

Enjoy! xo-G

Pumpkin Oat Muffins

Getting back to basics for creating real pumpkin flavor in a breakfast staple

When I was a kid growing up in Michigan, going to the apple orchard was an annual fall tradition.  Among the obvious treats; cider, donuts and caramel apples, it was the warm, soft, pumpkin spice muffins that were always a favorite of mine. I remember the delicate hint of spices, the molasses aroma, and a steamy, sweet and moist interior with a toasted crust.  The problem I often find with pumpkin muffins or pumpkin baked goods alike is their actual lack of pumpkin flavor. It seems the idea of pumpkin flavor has been replaced with kicked up amount of sugar and spice to equate some seasonal desire of what pumpkin should taste like.  Pumpkin itself is not an overwhelming flavor; it is subtle, earthy, and slightly salty and sweet.  I typically find that muffins in general are usually too sweet for my tastes so I wanted to figure out a way to recreate my apple orchard food memory of the Pumpkin Oat Muffins I enjoyed as a kid but also get back to basics and stay away from the commercialized version of what we think Pumpkin flavor is.

I started first by testing pumpkin filling; both canned versions of high end brand names to low end brands, as well as roasting and pureeing a sugar pumpkin.  The results proved that using a good quality pumpkin canned puree was a better alternative to roasting and pureeing yourself.  The roasted sugar pumpkin version rendered similar results to canned puree however it was a bit more fibrous and bland plus it took me two hours to roast, then puree, so why bother with the hassle of pots and pans. Skip the homemade puree and go for a good quality canned puree.

Next I tested different flour options, during my first few tests using all purpose flour, the muffins were coming out consistent but the texture was more cake like than anything else. The muffin was moist but too dense; I opted to try using oat flour instead of all purpose flour. Grinding up oats in the food processor gave me more of a grainy flour that ended up helping solve my texture issue. The larger pieces of grain mixed with finer, flour like oat powder helped create a light and fluffy texture. Adding ½ cup of rolled oats to the flour mixture allowed this version to hold up better to the incredible moist pumpkin puree, making for a light and fluffy muffin full of nooks and crannies.

Having the basic muffin texture down, it was time to work on the flavor. Since Pumpkin is a very light flavor of earthy and nutty tones, adding just the right amount of spice can really draw out and enhance the pumpkin flavor.  Overload on the spice too much and you run the risk of muting the pumpkin flavor all together.  I needed to find just the right balance; I first used a store bought pumpkin pie spice blend, which is a combination of cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and allspice.  This manufactured combination wasn’t enough to hold up to the oat flour, it was too subtle and far too cinnamon tasting.  I was looking for spice and depth of flavor but Pumpkin Pie flavoring wasn’t what I was trying to achieve. Tasters agreed, even on varying levels of pumpkin pie spice that this was not hitting the right notes to balance the sugars or the pumpkin puree.  I opted to play around with other spices and create my own harmonious blend.  I used similar ingredients, but left out the allspice and replaced it for a hint of clove.  Ginger powder was helping me create a spice note without taking over the flavors of the rest of the muffin.  Cinnamon in a lesser intense amount added to the nutty sweetness of the pumpkin puree as well as brought out the oat flavor better. Using ¾ cup of light brown sugar as well as a tablespoon of molasses really gave this muffin the balance of sweetness it deserved.

For a finishing touch I added ½ cup of raisins to the muffin batter for a natural sweet burst, to my surprise it enhanced both the spices and pumpkin flavor separately as well as equally.

Pumpkin Oat Muffins- Makes 12 muffins

For best results use fresh ground oat flour from a food processor, pulverizing the oats yourself will give a better grainy texture the muffin needs to stand up, literally. Also, for a nice dome like muffin top, be sure to rest the batter for at least 20 minutes before scooping into the muffin tin cups.

2          cups whole rolled oats, reserve ½ cup
¾        cup light brown sugar
1          teaspoon baking soda
½        teaspoon baking powder
½        teaspoon salt
1          teaspoon cinnamon
½        teaspoon ginger
1/8      teaspoon ground cloves
1/8      teaspoon fresh ground nutmeg
2          egg whites
1          15 oz can high quality pumpkin puree
½        cup buttermilk
2          tablespoons canola oil
1          teaspoon vanilla
1          tablespoon Molasses
½        cup of raisins
  1. In a food processor add 1 ½ cups of good quality oats, grind for about 10 seconds or until a gritty flour has formed.
  2. Whisk oat flour, oats, brown sugar, baking soda, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, ginger, clove, and nutmeg in a medium bowl until well combined. In a separate bowl combine the wet ingredients; egg whites, pumpkin puree, buttermilk, canola oil, vanilla, and molasses, whisk together until combined. Add dry ingredients into the wet ingredients and whisk until the mixture is together. Add ½ cup of Raisins and recombine.  Let the muffin mixture rest for 20-30 minutes.
  3. Adjust oven rack to the middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees.  Prepare muffin tin with paper muffin liners and spray the top of the muffin tin with baking spray. Gently spoon in batter just until it reaches the top of the liner, batter should be evenly distributed among all slots, do not leave any remaining batter in the bowl.
  4. Bake at 400 degrees 24-28 minutes or until a tooth pick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Kitchen Tip! Using a tablespoon to measure out just the right amout of molasses can be tricky since so much of the molasses can stick and be left behind. To ensure you get exactly the amount of molasses the recipe calls for, measure out the canola oil first in this recipe and then measure out the molasses just following.  The molasses will slide right off your measuring spoon, ensuring you get the exact amount in the recipe.

My time at Menton

It’s amazing what real hard work can do for a persons’ soul. I’ve always looked up to people who have the truly tough jobs in life; fire fighters, bomb squad service men and women, the folks from those Alaskan king crab shows, and well now I can add commis to that list. What is a commis you ask? Under the french brigade system designed by Auguste Escoffier, a commis is a new chef, typically the term given once entering a restaurant after formal training, and yes smack dab at the bottom of the proverbial food chain.

Being asked to work for the best restaurant in town is a no-brainer, you say yes. Then you give yourself a few weeks to prepare, say goodbye to friends, the beach, your tan, and any money you might have because you won’t be seeing these things or the daylight for awhile. Small prices to pay for top notch training I’d say.

I entered Menton naive. If I thought my stage was an indicator of the work ahead I was kidding myself, in retrospect the stage was the easiest 14- hour- sweaty- busy- hectic- nerve- racking- day I ever had at there.

Since leaving Menton for a completely different opportunity at America’s Test Kitchen, my friends and family have been asking “what was it like?” “how’s Barbara Lynch?” And “do you want to be a Chef?” Let’s tackle these questions in a bit more detail…

Menton is a nationally known fine dining restaurant, world ranking even with its addition to the Relais & Chateaux standing of the worlds best restaurants. In Boston, we only have a few restaurants offering unique, seasonal, and well executed french technique at its best and Menton is certainly at the top of the list. It holds such a reputation because they give their diners the full experience. Not only is the food memorable, exciting, and visually different, the dining experience is top notch. I once had a friend (before I started working there) tell me that it was as if the waiter knew he had to use the restroom before he knew he had to use it. This might have been an exaggeration on his part, however, this was still the kind of impression Menton gave him. Most recently, Cat Silirie the wine director for the Barbara Lynch Gruppo just won a James Beard Award for her idea and direction of their wine program. Not only is the wine and food excellent, the staff, atmosphere and attitudes of the front of the house play just as important of a balance. Without them, the food would not matter as much, the wine wouldn’t taste as good, and the atmosphere wouldn’t play such a unique presence. This is why I came to work here.

Showing up for my first day of work was intimidating; I was nervous, excited and questioning my ability to be there, since, I had never actually worked in a restaurant before. I showed up in my own chef pants for crying out loud! Rookie move. I had to remind myself that Chef Colin and Chef Wyatt saw something in me during my stage and that they knew I could do it. Setting up my station in the midst of 10 industry toughed up, hard working dudes sent nervous twists to the pit of my stomach, but I knew if I showed it, I’d get eaten alive. In this business, if you are told to do something you do it, so that’s what I did. Head down, eager to learn, just.do.work. As a commis, a big part of my daily tasks was to get the list of herbs needed for each station that day, Chef de Partie (CDP) and Garde Manage, meat entremet, fish entremet, meat CDP, Fish CDP, and anything canapes needed. 7 stations ranging with a list from 5-20 herbs each x the amount of garnish per plate x the amount of covers = thousands of individual herbs a day. It’s amazing how fast these fingers can move now! The first few days I spent a lot of time finding out what each herb was. I had no idea what persulane, oxalis, or stelaria looked like! (Uh hello Culinary school.. herb identification beyond the difference between parsley and cilantro would have been nice to know). After 5 hours of scurrying and rapidly plucking plooshes, leaves, flowers, and micro greens, roughly 40-60 plastic black to-go containers would adorn a perfectly cut (not torn!) green label with the stations name on it. Out of the herb “weeds” yet again. Now for the hard part…

At 4pm each day we had family meal, which I most often dreaded, it meant I had to stop working no matter if I was finished with the herbs, that I had to sit and eat, and wait for our pre service meeting to adjourn. Between the end of this meeting and the start of service was do or die time for me. I had to finish my projects, and also sometimes those of the other cooks, peeling walnuts, turning artichokes, blanching asparagus, getting pots, pans, towels, oils, salts, stocks, more garnishes, you name it! It had to be done ON THE FLY!

Sweating, always, and running on pure, head-spinning, adrenaline is sort of a great feeling.

From about 6pm to close (typically midnight) I had to help the dishwashers run the clean and dirty pots and pans up and down the stairs. All Clad pots to be exact, very heavy, most often 400-500 degrees hot and spitting with oil. I cannot say this was fun, however night after night I had to make a game out of it, how much could I lift? How fast could I run down and back up again? How could I best NOT burn myself? After awhile I treated it as my workout, this part of the job wasn’t going away anytime soon, so I had to make the best out of it, and make the best out of my arms and glutes while I was at it! Look out Madonna.

After about 5 weeks, I was moved up to Canapes. Done with picking herbs and on to something new! This was an exciting day for me, however the work and hustle only got harder. My prep list included: make madeline mix and bake madelines, make onion macaroons, cut fish of the day tartare, fry potato chips, prep and make mushroom leek tarts, steam off clams for butter soup, make gazpacho, gather all my garnishes; fried capers, chive tips, chervil, goat cheese, creme fraiche, caviar, onion/carrot/herb powders and be set up for service at 5pm not a minute late. Afterall, my food was the first bite the diner would taste and I cannot make them wait. After slingin’ canapes for 5 hours I’d clean up my station and resume pot and pan running, although by now I’m a pro and carrying much more weight than I could during week one.

When service finally came to a close, we’d clean the molteni, polish, shine and scrub until everything sparkled again. Everyone’s remaining mise en place came downstairs again, the low boys were cleared out, the pass was turned off, and the mops hung to dry. And now for my favorite part of the day, beers. We’d spread out the dirty pass linen and throw hunks of cheese, leftover bread rolls and iced down cambros full of miller high life. Finally I stopped sweating, cold beer, even miller high life tasted like the best thing of earth. Left over cheese from the cheese cart felt like my first meal all day, and the bread rolls, oh the bread rolls. The day was over, we’d discuss prep and service, highs and lows, call outs and things to change, the cooks with visible exhaustion on their faces and their aprons, relished in their soon fate, sleep.

Looking back, this experience has taught me a lot. I couldnt write about it at first, I had to let the moments sink in, settle, and rest from it. It was physically tough, demanding, mentally draining at times, but it also was extremely rewarding, fun, exciting, and hilarious. It only took a few weeks to feel part of the family, and the camaraderie in that kitchen was the most fun I’ve had since playing sports in high school. Good people with common interests. But also because I was working with some amazing talent. Each person with their own story of where they came from, how they started cooking, where they’ve worked, traveled, eaten, and where they’ll go next. On the few days when I thought I wouldn’t make it, I was in the weeds, burnt badly, or just plain exhausted these guys would keep me going, they’d always say “get your shit done, but if you need help, no one will let you fail” and they never did.

I learned so much while working there, from even better work efficiency to meat and fish butchery to doing the best you can or not all. Simple things, like chive squiggles, shelling lagoustine, peeling walnuts- (yes they individually peel walnuts!), making pea veloute chlorophyll, and all things foie gras.

As my time at Menton was coming to an end, I was actually sad to leave. A part of me was relieved it was over, but another part of me knew that if only I had started in this business 10 years ago, it’d be amazing to see where I’d be today. But that’s life, things change. Personally, I feel accomplished with my time at Menton, I was pushed hard, worked harder than I ever have in my life, and also met some of the most amazing people. I wouldn’t change one day of it. I discovered that I’m f-ing great at time management and I can hustle. I can learn and be taught quickly on the fly, that my food memory is stronger than my actual day to day memory, and that I’m so happy I decided to change careers. Food, in whatever capacity that holds going forward, is where I belong. No, I don’t think I want to be a chef in a restaurant setting, perhaps in a private home, yacht (ha! one can dream..), or for my own friends and family but the restaurant world is tough and for the right kind of person. I’d rather keep being a rolling stone in this culinary journey.

meat room shenanigans

A big thank you to Chef Colin, Chef Wyatt, Johnny, Lou, Jeff, Clarice, Matty, Aaron, Oz, Brian, Chef Ian, Chef Chris, Chef Bethany, Kelly, Katherine, Creepy, Ben, and C, it was a lot of fun to work with all of you and thank you for allowing me in your kitchen.

Oh and thanks to Chef Barbara Lynch for employing such great people. Even though we were never formally introduced, your presence was noted and it was fun to see you around the kitchen.

Originally posted on Under My Knife:

I recently had the honor of being a chef volunteer at the 5th annual Pebble Beach Food & Wine Festival. I first caught wind of the idea through a west-coast based family member, “uncle” Kent, who I’ve just been getting to know over the past 2 years.  You might remember a blog post from the early days of UMK titled; A life without cheese, is not a life worth living!  when I first met Kent in his cheese shop in Carmel, CA.  Kent, a former Hawaiian native, professional sommelier and serious cheese intellectual has the friendliest personality west of the Mississippi, not to mention he’s a natural born networker and knows everybody.  

When Kent first mentioned the PBFW was coming up in April of this year, he said “hey maybe you want to come? I can probably put you in touch with the event organizers and perhaps they…

View original 1,164 more words

Paris Gastronomique

Ah Paris. What an amazing city.  It was my first time visiting this gorgeous place and it couldn’t have come at a better time, my schooling at Le Cordon Bleu is just a week away from ending and my internship at a modern French Boston restaurant (Menton) is just about to begin.  The stars aligned for this one.

Throughout my life, I have formed opinions of how the French people are, most of my influence came from movies, books, and stereotypes. Even cartoons such as Pepe Le Pew when I was a child conjured ideas in my head about the snotty and rude French.  However, I must say, after spending seven days in this country I did not encounter one rude, maladjusted, or condescending person. I asked for directions, ordered meals, and participated in everyday language both in English and my horrible French without any problems at all.  Perhaps it was my boyfriend’s ability to speak French so eloquently that enabled us to fit in seamlessly, but, then again he’s English and that’s a whole other story. (Why the French hate the British).

We arrived in France on a rainy and cold afternoon, after finding our way out of the Luxembourg station in the 6th arrondissement, near St. Germaine De Pres we were steps from our rented Parisian apartment (Thanks Airbnb!). Although I was too excited by all the smells, sights, cafes, and well-to-do-frenchies, we decided it would be best to nap off our jet lag a bit.  I awoke to wine, brie, and a warm and crusty baguette…right! I’m in France! Yes I have the best boyfriend ever. I shook off my foggy head and got down to business with wine and travel guides.

After stuffing myself full of cheese, bread and wine, we went to hit the town around midnight. Although the French often eat later in the evening and restaurants’ usually stay open until 2am, this was not so much on a rainy Monday night.  We found ourselves just a block away at a covered outdoor café that faced the Luxembourg gates.  It wasn’t anything special, but my surroundings and company were, so we had a fantastic time.  The elderly owner was still fluttering about serving us and the few remaining Parisians that still imbibed sipping wine and smoking.  We enjoyed a wonderful bottle of Bordeaux until our teeth looked like wood and Dan splurged on a plate of frites while I took in all the sights and smells of the world around us. Our waiter/owner did not rush us albeit approaching two in the morning, he let us sit and sip and relax until we were the last people in the restaurant.

After three bottles of wine and ten hours of sleep we awoke without one trace of a hangover.  How can this be we thought! A spot of coffee and a few croissants later.. ok and a pain au chocolate.. ok AND a bit of baguette with jam we made moves.  Pastry overloaded and quite happy we decided to plop our carbed out bodies on a tour of the city by way of the Big Bus Tour.  Two and a half hours later we had seen all the major sights and scoped out our adventure areas for the week.

On Wednesday we woke up to torrential rain, it was not what we had planned for, however we were in PARIS and it didn’t matter.  After a few train rides on the metro, we ended up in the largest and oldest covered market in Paris. Tiny books stores, craft shops, wine boutiques, tiny restaurants, artisans, and the occasional empty space filled over 4 city blocks of undercover market places. It felt like true old world Paris.  I could feel the tinkers, butchers, and cheese mongers who formerly occupied this space. It was very special.

While most of the lunch spots were bustling with customers, we were starving and a bit defeated when we stumbled upon a rather fancy but empty looking spot; Passage 53, located at the 53rd address of covered arcade.  We entered a modern minimalist dining room adorned with simple art, and colorful place settings. The maitre’d greeted us in a smart-looking, sleek black suit, with a black skinny tie. He was very French looking minus the thin upper lip mustache, and with a bright smile he welcomed us. He sat us and quickly explained that there was no menu, only pre fixe gastronomique tasting menu; the lunch version, or if we wanted to go bigger, the dinner tasting menu.  But before we were to choose he needed to check with the chef to see if he could accommodate two more for lunch. He further explained that they run solely on reservations.  I started to get nervous. I felt under dressed; I was wearing a simple sun dress soaked in rain, and Dan in his t- shirt and shorts. I was convinced he was checking with the chef to figure out a way to tell us to leave. We were under dressed but that didn’t seem to phase the wait staff, the Maitre’d came back with excellent news that they had room for two more. To our delight, we began to discuss the menu options. Without question Dan and I went for the whole shebang, plus the extra course with caviar. We’re on vacation, bring it! My nerves were instantly calm, we had been accepted.  As guests started to arrive, we noticed their anticipation and energy flooding the room and we quickly began to realize that we were somewhere unique.

If I could eat tasting menus everyday of my life I would. They are such a thrill, a rollercoaster for your palate, and always an adventure of new flavors and products. What I am about to walk you through is an endless homage to traditional French cuisine but in the most simple flavors and modern techniques of our culinary culture to date.  It is and exquisite experience to eat such developed flavors and to understand their depths and difficulty.  Fourteen courses of pure amazingness; some simple, some complex, but all fabulously harmonious.

Amuse bouche #1-Grilled salsify, first poached in butter.

Amuse bouche #2- Veloute of fresh pea with a quenelle of pea ice cream

Course Un- Caviar alongside potato strings with chive and chive blossom

Course Deux- Crab, English cucumber, pea gratinee, horseradish cream, poured cucumber jus with verbena

Course Trois- Gentle poached langoustine with cauliflower cream with crisp cauliflower shavings

Course Quatre-White asparagus, Parmesan cream, crumbled egg yolk and parmesan crisp

Palate awakener- Veal Consomme with a 3 minute egg, sorrel mushroom, chives and asparagus

Course Cinq- Turbo with peas, lima bean, and butter poached wheat berries with wood sorrel

Course Six- Veal breast with fingerling potatoes, celery foam, fennel foam, cabbage, mustard micro green and mustard seed puree

Course Sept- Squab, pumpkin cardamom puree, a micro brunoise quenelle of carrots vichy

Course Huit- Crème Brulee with an isomalt crackle

Course Neuf- Lemon curd ice cream with a lime candy and a cold lime crème sauce

Course Dix- Burnt caramel ice cream with a shaved white chocolate crumble

Course Onze- Season cherries, cherry sorbet, grated white chocolate and cherry grantinee on top of a white cherry ice cream

Course Douze- Chocolate ganache tart with citrus honey

All in all; 14 courses with champagne to start and coffee to end.  Our bellies were full, our minds were swirling with excitement and my taste buds were dancing around in my mouth. It was one of the best meals of my life; simple, well executed, unexpected, and entirely memorable.

Paris Part Deux coming up soon!

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 817 other followers